Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
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[Photograph: Robyn Lee]
Wandering the mega-mercato Eataly in search of a quick snack can be tough. And it's easy to lose hope when you learn that the pizza at Rossopomodoro comes with a fork and knife... and a wait that sometimes approaches two hours. Less obvious—and much less of a headache—is the by-the-slice operation tucked between the bread and pasta counters.
Your choices here are straightforward, and each cost around $4. Margherita and something like a marinara (heavy on the oregano) are the two mainstays. Other squares might get covered with a thick slices of prosciutto cotto, green and black olives, or chili-flecked broccoli rabe.
First off, let's be clear: this is not the thin, crisp pizza al taglio you'd find in Rome. It's a much closer cousin to focaccia genovese, soft and spongy. Chasing my best memories of Genoa, I chose a piece piled with onions.
Blond and rather bland, the crust was insufficiently salted and, to my mind, under-baked. The olive oil soaked up into ever pore of the dough, creating a floppy base for the heavy-handed toppings. The onions themselves were still crunchy. They'd been barely sweated rather than caramelized. I would've liked to see them with more color, more sweetness.
That's just it: from this particular slice of let's-call-it-focaccia, I wanted more. Next time, I might take just a few more minutes to order a whole Neapolitan pie from Rossopomodoro for takeout.
Eataly
200 5th Avenue, New York, NY 10010 (map)
212-229-2560; eatalyny.com
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.Clik here to view.
Clik here to view.
