[Photographs: Meredith Smith]
We've seen fries grace the top of pies before—poutine pizza and hot dog and french fry pizza—and those were deemed reprehensible. And then we've seen Adam tackle the cheeseburger and pizza mashup, only to learn how dangerously wrong that combo could go. So what compelled me to eat the Cheeseburger and Fries slice at New York Pizza? Novelty and a lapse in judgement.
New York Pizza on Mass Ave in Boston has provided serviceable slices after one too many on a number of occasions. And it's not unheard of to soberly seek it out when you're nearby and want a thin slice alternative that isn't putting on any Upper Crust type airs. While I knew their strength was in the post-libation camp, I didn't know how much they were firmly planted there until I encountered this fine specimen in their case.
Instead of tomato sauce, this pizza is made with ketchup(!). Who wants to be bothered with operating condiments when you're at the cheeseburger and fries pizza point in the night anyway, right? So there's some logic there, but not a lot of good sense. I can only think of one acceptable application where baking ketchup is a good idea: meatloaf. And you know, that's what this tastes like more than anything. Except unlike meatloaf which has lots of fat to keep the ketchup from getting that metallic quality when it dries out, the rim of the crust is ketchup's death kiss.
And while there is a certain appeal to french fries coated in blistered cheese, they just can't give a star performance after sitting around cold and then getting a little reheat in the oven. All the appeal of their crisp exteriors are lost, and the flavor of the earthy spuds begin to sour. It's just sad all around. From bland burger to soggy fries with a ketchup stand-in for sauce, this is a slice best avoided regardless of your state of sobriety. Can anyone name some other bad idea pizzas?
New York Pizza
435 Massachusetts Ave Boston, MA 02118
617-266-7020; newyorkpizzaboston.com
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About the author: Meredith Smith is the Slice editor. You can follow her on Twitter: @mertsmith.