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Daily Slice: The Beef Carpaccio Pizza at Dobbs Ferry, San Francisco

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[Photographs: David Kover]

Sometimes an ingredient steals the headlines on the menu, but not in the actual dish.

Of course, the purpose of this Daily Slice is to report on the fact that Dobbs Ferry, a restaurant in San Francisco (not Westchester, NY), serves beef carpaccio on top of a pizza. But it's the chive pesto that stands out on this pie, providing a garlicky, salty, pungent bite that dominates. The powerful sauce might prove too much if not for the thin slices of raw sirloin they put on this pizza after it comes out of the oven. The mild, meaty flavor gives the pie some depth and mellows out the pesto just a bit.

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You need to look for spots to grab the slices because the sheets of steak curl over the crust in places. It's a crunchy, rather than bready crust, as if there's a good deal of oil in the dough. It had me thinking of this pie as a bar appetizer I might want to share amongst a group of friends, rather than a pizza I'd want to tuck into all on my own.

Dobbs Ferry

409 Gough Street, San Francisco, CA 94102 (map)
415-551-7700; dobbsferrysf.com



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