Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
Pizza or not, the crust at Momed remains one of the better in Los Angles. Inspired by the Turkish pide (recently reviewed), it cradles toppings and flavors analogous to pizza. The dough is soft— a rich moist center folded in on itself—the outside crisps like pillowy flatbread—exactly as it should. Though the pides are sleeker than previous visits, the toppings are exceptional. The Fig and Arugula with caramelized onions and halloumi cheese ($14) is a menu standout.
The halloumi cheese, non-melting in nature, adds at sharp salty base to the sweet caramelized onions and slivered figs that are tucked into the folds of dough. Peppery arugula offset the fruit and cheese in texture and earthy flavor. The addition of sesame seeds and almonds complete each bite with their nutty crunch. Served steaming hot from the wood-fired oven, the balsamic reduction—though it's ruby red hue and jelly-like consistency is unlike any balsamic I've encountered—leaps into the sinuses for the first few bites. The effect is jarring if you don't know it's coming. Now that you've been warned, you're ready to enjoy this sweet and savory pide.
Momed
233 South Beverly Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90212 (map)
310-270-4444; atmomed.com
About the author: After nearly a decade in Brooklyn, Kelly Bone landed back in Los Angeles where she writes The Vegetarian Foodie. She spends the rest of her time designing office cubicles... you might be sitting in one right now! Follow her on Twitter at @TheVegFoodie